A Load of Bunk

As soon as I saw my first slow roasted pork shoulder sandwich come off the line at Bunk, I knew that I'd be back multiple times. The space is utilitarian, almost divey, but with a real sense of comfort, as if they'd been there for years making those sandwiches. And in truth, the years of experience comes through most in the flavor.

Of the recent crop of sandwich shops, Bunk is easily my favorite. They've managed to combine the ingredient-driven focus of Pacific Northwest cuisine and focus its energy into the recession-friendly art of sandwich-making. With all of the sandwiches clocking in at under $9, it's become my new benchmark. In other words, if something costs more, it's gotta taste better than Bunk, and that's a hard task.

Bunk goes beyond the usual formula of meat and bread, providing some really artisanal creations like the pork shoulder with mustard greens, or the beef tongue with frisee.

Some, like the po' boy made with shrimp salad, is so deceptively simple, but is delicious beyond description. The menu changes every day, and even though I try and stop in once a week, I still manage to find something on the menu that I haven't had yet.

The side dishes here are excellent as well, with the potato salad being the best option, though regional favorites like red beans and green rice or the Frito pie (served in the bag of Frito's!) shows that while the end result and approach might be upscale, the mentality at Bunk is still quite humble.

There's still quite a few sandwiches that have appeared and disappeared on the menu before I've had a chance to try them, but I know they're coming back. I guess I'll just have to wait until next week.